20s look: hi-hat jewelry and sautoir necklaces
The jewel symbol of the 20’s look, the sautoir necklace, which has never ceased to tickle the imagination of the great jewelers
Fast and brilliant performance, syncopated rhythm in 4/4, an irrepressible and contagious novelty takes hold in the United States of America and in the Europe of the 1920s. It is the irresistible hi-hat. Fashion changes, women’s clothes are changed, hairstyles and accessories change, a real revolution is underway, perhaps the most important of the early twentieth century, for uses and costumes.
Nobody has ever forgotten her, on the contrary contemporary fashion (even a hundred years later) constantly calls her, and it is certainly no coincidence that one of the most awarded and acclaimed TV series is set precisely in the “Roaring Twenties”: Downton Abbey.
The episodes are an immersion in 20s fashion: simple and linear, colorful clothes with exotic decorations, bare arms but rigorously covered with gloves that reach the forearm. And here’s peeping i sautoir very long necklaces (Gabriele d’Annunzio ironically called them “umbilical necklaces”), often adorned with a tassel-shaped pendant or an elongated pearl.
Composed of a single thread, or two or three turns, the sautoir is a versatile jewel which can also be worn as a bracelet, hairstyle decoration and even as a belt. The favorite colors for the gems are decisive like red, but also bright such as apple green or orange. These are the years ofArt Deco, we see turquoise, lapis lazuli, malachites, aquamarines, cabochon moonstones, emeralds on white gold and platinum frames.
These necklaces enhanced the neckline or the back (if worn on the back) and added a touch of femininity to straight and slightly severe clothes, suitable for dancing hi-hats. In the luxury clubs, the great jazz orchestras with wind instruments, piano, double bass are depopulated: at the right time, you can go out on the track to dance to the frenetic rhythm of the bands.
Those are the years in which Coco Chanel invent the petite robe noire, the sheath dress, expertly defined by Vogue “Ford of Chanel”, Worn with very long pearl necklaces with three or more strands. Innovation, speed and rhythm distinguish this decade, so let’s not be surprised to hear them roar again and again.