Ahluwalia fall winter 2020 2021 collection

Priya Alhuwalia, founder of the brand Ahluwalia, among the finalists of the 2020 edition of the LVMH Prize, built the autumn winter 2020 2021 collection around a very significant date, both historically and personally: the 1965. This date in fact represents the year in which Martin Luther King Jr. led the marches that left Selma in Alabama, but also the period of conflicts along the border between Pakistan and India, as well as, on another emotional side, to bring back to memory of the designer of very dear family memories. All this has triggered in Ahluwalia a profound reflection on nostalgia and how this feeling often distorts reality, making us believe that what happened in past times is actually better than what we are experiencing in the present, thus creating a sort of mnemonic trap.

From a stylistic point of view, this look towards the past and, in particular, towards a decisive decade for the history of fashion, wants to be translated into an aesthetic that does not simply boil down to evoke the garments that have dogmatically represented it. Ahluwalia in fact prefers to reinterpret in its own way characteristic elements of that period, converting them into more personal proposals. An incredible source of inspiration is surely represented by the work of Barbara Brown, a 1960s print designer who with his waves and repeated geometries perfectly summed up the style of an era.

© Dominika Scheibinger

© Dominika Scheibinger

© Dominika Scheibinger

The waves therefore represent the recurring element of the autumn winter 2020 2021 collection of Ahluwalia through a series of interpretations of the same, which is repeated in the various proposals. The uniform in workwear style opens the collection with neutral tones certainly characteristic of the 60s, but becoming modern, thanks to a laser processing that recreates wavy movements, replacing a print. Everything is combined with a shirt with a pistan collar and a small zip on a cross of patterns. Even denim suits are decorated with recurring waves obtained both with the seams that run through them and with the laser technique; these are worn with a trench coat made using a series of fabrics recovered and assembled in a patchwork. The patchwork technique is also used for knitwear, whose symmetrical order makes it decidedly fresh and modern, but also for trackpants, the result of the recomposition of old fabrics from the archive Adidas. A more sartorial part of the collection is represented by the check proposals: classic trousers with a soft cut and shirts that alternate prints with darker tones and brighter ones. Finally, duvets are also crossed by waves, the texture of the collection, thanks to an unconventional matelassé, highlighted by contrasting color inserts.

© Dominika Scheibinger

© Dominika Scheibinger

© Dominika Scheibinger

© Dominika Scheibinger

© Dominika Scheibinger

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