Autumn winter 2020 fashion shows: a look to copy between fashion and cinema
The fall-winter 2020 2021 fashion shows invite us to look at some great masterpieces of cinema, to immerse ourselves in the atmosphere and style of the different collections
Fashion and cinema have always been inextricably linked in a relationship of mutual inspiration. Blake Edwards he chose Hubert de Givenchy for Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s, the Cerbiatte of Claude Chabrol wore overcoats of Nina Ricci, is Baz Luhrmann he turned to Prada to recreate the Art Déco de charm The Great Gatsby. How not to notice, on the contrary, the reference to the Hitchcock blondes in the collections of Madame Miuccia, the Italy of Dolce Vita loved by Karl Lagerfeld and rediscovered in Métiers d’Art Chanel, the forms of Catherine Deneuve in clothes designed by Yves Saint Laurent? Renewing itself year after year with new films and new collections, this knot of love also returns to the autumn winter 2020 2021 – large screen and catwalk mix in fashion shows full of images and references, in a fusion of art, culture and couture. Through a series of films that have become iconic (also) for costumes, it is possible to immerse yourself in the atmosphere that designers have created for their shows, experiencing fashion at 360 °, letting themselves be guided by the looks of actors and actresses to interpret and replicate the better next season’s trends.
Dracula by Bram Stoker – Rodarte
Laura and Kate Mulleavy, sisters behind the brand Rodarte, promote an ideal of gothic and languid femininity in the collection autumn winter 2020 2021. Hoods, bright silk, embroideries with red roses, décor with black cobwebs that stand out on white fabric, dark and blood lipsticks – a contrast between light and shadow worthy of Frankenstein of Mary Shelley, of the Vampire of Polidori, creatures of terror both born on the same night, during a competition of macabre tales. To fully understand thenoir essence of fashion and immerse yourself in an equally eerie and romantic atmosphere, there is no better film than Dracula by Bram Stoker of Francis Ford Coppola of 1992, with Wynona Ryder, Keanu Reeves is Gary Oldman. Based on the novel of the same name by the Irish writer, the film boasts the wonderful costumes of Eiko Ishioka, absolute masterpieces in which religious references, occultism and Victorian style are mixed in one garment, perfect inspiration for those who want to approach the dark side of fashion.
Marie Antoinette – Moschino
Jeremy Scott evokes Versailles in Milan for Moschino, with a collection inspired by the glories of Maria Antonietta. Greedy colors from strawberry to pistachio, pastries and baguettes transformed into clutches, monumental hairstyles and dresses with maxi panniers modernize the wardrobe of the iconic queen, according to the same principle followed by Sofia Coppola in turning Marie Antoinette (2006). With protagonist Kirsten Dunst, the biopic is that of a rock star who wears Converse and subverts the social rules for free living. With a soundtrack that includes Bow Wow Wow, Siouxsie and the Banshee, The Cure on a par with Antonio Vivaldi and Jean-Philippe Rameau, Marie Antoinette is famous above all for the wonderful costumes of Milena Canonero, so precise and with attention to the smallest details that she won an Oscar.
The Fawns – Chanel
The film Les Biches (in Italian, The Fawns) of Claude Chabrol is one of the masterpieces of the Nouvelle Vagueas well as one of the most daring and intense productions in the history of cinema. Produced in 1968, the film centers on the morbid love triangle between the beautiful and rich Frédérique (Stéphane Audran), the painter Why (Jacqueline Sassard), whose subjects are only fawns, and the architect Paul Thomas (Jean-Louis Trintignan). With clothes signed by Nina Ricci and the suggestive setting of a winter Saint-Tropez, the film inspires Virginie Viard with its sophisticated elegance, translated into the beautiful collection autumn winter 2020 2021 from Chanel. There are the boots, the important jewels, the jackets left open – all that the actresses show off in the French film. During the show, the models walk in pairs, arm in arm, and the show ends with a trio of supermodels who remember the most famous scene in the film.
Dior – Me and Annie
Maria Grazia Chiuri carries on his feminist aesthetic in the new Dior winter collection, inspired by the struggles of Italian women in the 70s. With a location decorated with neon writings by the collective of artists Claire Fontaine, t-shirts with the phrase ‘I Say I’ by activist Carla Lonzi and clothes inspired by the work of designer Marc Bohan , the maison ‘s creative director explores a strong and contemporary concept of womanhood combative, and does it through Bar jacket with check motif, amphibians, and tailored suits. In this tomboyish allure with hints of the male wardrobe it is impossible not to think of Diane Keaton, the actress symbol of the 70s rebellion. Muse of Woody Allen, has consecrated the style of the trouser suit, plaid jackets and high boots in the film Me and Annie (1977) by Allen, considered among the 100 best films in history byAmerican Film Institute. The fashion front certainly represents one of the most interesting and iconic aspects of the film: in fact, every single look came directly from the Keaton wardrobe, without resorting to any stylist or costume designer.
Cinderella in Paris – Givenchy
The binomial Givenchy – Audrey Hepburn it is among the famous in the history of cinema and fashion. The Belgian actress, muse of the couturier Hubert de Givenchy, wore some legendary creations in his films, among which the black sheath dress of Breakfast at Tiffany’s. For theautumn winter 2020 2021 of the fashion house, Clare Waight Keller chooses classic, clean and rigorous lines, intense but not bright colors, like the splendid red of the dress with hood worn by Kaia Gerber. Lovers of auteur cinema will certainly have grasped the similarity with the dress sported by Hepburn in the film Cinderella in Paris (1957) of Stanley Donen. Following the story of a bookseller, a fashion photographer (Fred Astaire) and the editor of a famous fashion magazine (Kay Thompson), the film is full of references to couture: there are custom made clothes by Givenchy, costumes of Hedith Head, and the characters of Astaire and Thompson follow respectively on the figures of Richard Avedon is Diana Vreeland.
The Great Gatsby – Miu Miu
For the new collection Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada draws on an imagery of patterns and tapestries ranging from Art Deco to the 1940s, in a triumph of bright colors and geometric patterns. Without ever abandoning fundamental elements of its aesthetics such as crystals, pastel shades, and soft leather accessories, Miu Miu presents a new ideal of elegance, a mixture of exuberance, excess and vintage elements. Among these, the references to the 1920s transport the mind to the jazz opera par excellence, The Great Gatsby of Francis Scott Fitzgerald, and its cinematic transposition shot by Baz Luhrmann in 2013. Con Leonardo Dicaprio is Carey Mulligan, the film made use of an exceptional costume designer, namely Miuccia in person, who created splendid clothes and accessories in pure Charleston style.
Bread, Love and … – Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana They have always spread a message of Italian art and quality, drawing on the immense aesthetic imagery offered by the Bel Paese. The latest collection focuses on a principle of ancient craftsmanship, on the centuries-old craftsmanship of the seamstress, the shoemaker, and on the excellence of tailoring. Among the muses of designers there are always the great actresses of national cinema, like Sophia Loren or Gina Lollobrigida, and she with her simple and irreverent femininity seems to be hiding behind the bandanas tied around the neck presented on the show. In the movie series Bread, love and …, Lollobrigida, alongside a great Vittorio De Sica, is a young woman who discovers the richness of love in post-war poverty. The three films of Luigi Comencini, shot in the 1950s, they are a window on the past of Italian history, a way of knowing the strong and courageous character of a nation that defeats suffering with irony and romanticism.
Maîtresse – Fendi
A year after the disappearance of Karl Lagerfeld, Silvia Venturini Fendi pays tribute to the man who for 54 has covered the role of artistic director of the brand. There Fendi fall winter 2020 2021 collection reveals a new taste, a new creative direction taken by the designer, rooted in the past but projected into the future. An example is the total black leather suit seen in the fashion show, which refers to the costumes created by Lagerfeld for the film Maîtresse of Barbet Schroeder 1975. With Gérard Depardieu is Bulle Ogier, the film focuses on the life of a dominatrix and her relationships. Latex and tight-fitting garments are the main element of this bondage-inspired wardrobe, highlighting the sensual and unprejudiced side of femininity. Extra curiosity? Silvia Venturini Fendi brought her entire team to a screening of the film before the show.
Barry Lyndon – Louis Vuitton
Nicolas Ghesquière has created one of the most spectacular settings ever seen to present the new collection Louis Vuitton. Imagining a dialogue between the past and the present of fashion, the creative director collaborated with the Oscar-winning costume designer Milena Canonero to create 200 period clothes that span a 500-year time span. Ghesquière’s futuristic aesthetic parades against a background of ruffs and helmets like Louise Brooks, combining the visionary talent of the creative director with that evocative of Canonero. Among the many films that have benefited from his costumes, the unmissable is Barry Lyndon of Stanley Kubrick (director with whom he also collaborated for Clockwork Orange). The 1975 film, an adaptation of the William Makepeace Thackery novel of the same name, is set in eighteenth-century England, and the liveries, the embroideries, and the precious details thought by the costume designer contributed to making it a masterpiece.
Joan of Arc – Paco Rabanne
There autumn winter 2020 2021 collection by Paco Rabanne it is a tribute to the history of costume, in all its facets. Military chainmail, ecclesiastical hoods, lace and brocade by Ancien Régime, all rediscovered in a contemporary key. Among the most surprising dresses of the parade stand out the soft silver armor, such as helmet and metal fringes, an image of an almost mystical soldier woman inspired by the revolutionary figure of Giovanna D’Arco. A unique story of its kind, that of Pulzella d’Orleans, which has conquered not only the creative director of the maison Julien Dossena, but also many directors like Luc Besson. Played by a gorgeous Milla Jovovich, Giovanna D’Arco relives in the 1999 film of the same name with the costumes of Catherine Leterrier, who for his masterful work won the prestigious César Prize.