Mauro Simionato is Giulia Bortoli they are the founders of the experimental knitwear brand (included in the February 2020 issue of Vogue Talents) Calves. There autumn winter 2020 2021 collection which they presented on the last and turbulent day of Milan Fashion Week represents the new chapter of the project Cosmic Youth, which takes its name from the homonymous youth movement that spread in Italy in the late 70s. The Cosmic is the style characterized by a mix of African musical influences and the use of the synthesizer, born in Cosmic Club of Lazise and in Melody Mecca of Rimini. The resulting Italian subculture inspired the duo in creating the knitwear project. The collection for next winter is called Run love, run don’t be afraid borrowing a verse from the song Under the sign of fish by Antonello Venditti who, released in 1978, actually described the historical moment to which Vitelli refers constantly. This alternation between fear and trust in love is the investigation theme of the new season, which is perfectly linked, with an incredible ability to predict, to the difficult times we are experiencing.
In addition to this sophisticated subcultural inspiration, Calves it is characterized by an absolutely unique knitwear design. In fact, by recovering the waste yarns from the Italian regional knitwear factories, they have created a totally new fabric, called Doomboh, as a result of the needle punching technique – a process by which multiple layers are superimposed and compacted together. In this way, the resulting fabric appears as a hybrid set of different types of filaments that simply seem to be joined together, without actually being woven. In this way it was possible to eliminate the waste almost completely, also using a material that would have ended up in landfills. The experimentation also involves the dyeing phase which takes place according to the Dutch technique, which provides for the continuous reuse of water, therefore constantly recycled.
There autumn winter 2020 2021 collection therefore, the protagonist is the Doomboh hybrid fabric, used as the basis for the creation of a series of classic wardrobe items. It starts from an oversized caban, a trench coat in an intense red, obtained by special dyeing techniques, arriving at a sophisticated overcoat. The trousers are five pockets, declined both in a cropped and slightly flared version, and with a wide and soft cut. The Doomboh is also used for suits made up of a 70s jacket with visible pockets or, for women, very slim and combined with a midi pencil skirt. The wide range of traditional proposals is therefore absolutely innovative, thanks to this stunning fabric, both from an environmental and aesthetic point of view.