CATWALKS FEBRUARY 2020
The fall-winter 2020 fashion shows ended for about fifteen days, with the arrival of an emergency such as the spread of the coronavirus that catalyzed all our energies and attentions. Precisely for this reason we decided to do now a summary of the most talked about moments of the past fashion weeks because they actually gave us some really interesting surprise moments.
1. The creative co-direction Prada-Simons
© Photography Courtesy Prada
The rumors of a possible installation of the designer Raf Simons in the Miu Miu maison had been circulating in the sector for several weeks, but it is during the penultimate day of Milan Fashion Week, or on February 23, that a definitive announcement has finally arrived from Miuccia Prada herself. A radical change was, in fact, underway, but not for the Miu Miu brand as many had thought. During a quick press conference, confirmation arrived that Simon would join Miuccia Prada as creative co-director of the fashion brand from April 1st, with the first co-signed collection scheduled for the September catwalks. Stay tuned!
2. Bureau Betak’s commitment to more sustainable fashion shows
© Photography Bertrand Rindoff Petroff / Getty Images
“Today we announce that we will become the first luxury fashion agency in the world to receive ISO 20121 certification for the management of sustainable events,” revealed the expert designer and fashion show designer Alexandre de Betak (of Bureau de Betak) on Instagram on February 25. The creative entrepreneur, known for making the sets of some of the most innovative fashion shows since the early 1990s (including the pavilions for the Dior Otherwordly show), does not take ecological problems lightly. “This means that every fashion show, exhibition or event curated by the Bureau Betak offices in New York, Paris and Shanghai will be designed and executed with a commitment to use the best procedures to reduce the environmental impact across the entire supply chain and production.”
3. Kim K’s lattex evening gloves at the Sunday Service
Kim Kardashian-West in Balmain during Paris Fashion Week
© Marc Piasecki / Getty Images
When Kanye West brought the world of fashion to church on the morning of March 1 with a Sunday mass aimed at raising the spirit at the historic Parisian theater Bouffes du Nord, Kim Kardashian-West took the opportunity to make the look debut personalized by Balmain, fresh from the fall winter 2020 fashion show. Accompanied by her sister Kourtney (vinyl from head to toe) and by the creative director of the brand, Olivier Rousteing, Kim wore a shiny set that also presented one of the most sought after accessories of the season : the long second skin effect gloves. The first rows – entrusted to the travel hand disinfectants hidden in their Bottega Veneta clutch bags – immediately noticed the highlight of Mrs Kardashian-West’s look: easy to clean latex finish.
4. The star of the catwalk of the new decade
© Armando Grillo / Gorunway.com
The twenty year old South Sudanese-Australian, star of the cover of Vogue and Model of the Year 2019, Adult Akech, has ignited the catwalks of the February 2020 fashion shows since the first weeks, parading for Chanel, Valentino, Versace and Marc Jacobs (to name a few), confirming itself as the face of the season. According to the front rows, without Adult it cannot be a successful show now.
5. The film Under the Skin and Balenciaga
Balenciaga fashion show fall winter 2020 2021
© Alessandro Lucioni / Gorunway.com
The catwalks fall winter 2020 2021 marked a new era for high profile fashion shows that aim to awaken perception in ways almost impossible to capture on social media – something that comes almost like an anathema for anyone who thinks that the fashion weeks are increasingly governed by “likes”. For Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Balenciaga these new worlds (or an exaggerated version of ours, as in the case of Demna Gvasalia) are rapidly becoming moments where it is worth putting aside the smartphone.
The large screen suspended on the ceiling of the film studio north of Paris where Balenciaga paraded with his autumn winter 2020 collection, showed heinous weather phenomena and apocalyptic scenarios. Below it, the first row sessions were taken out to give the impression that they were submerged in the depths of a dark and slimy pool.
In the following days, the mood of that particular mass of water still lingers. Only a few centimeters deep and surrounded by total darkness (precisely the level of brightness that does not allow the proper functioning of smartphones), the audience, stationed on the shore, witnessed one of the best references to modern cinema: the science fiction masterpiece of the 2013 signed Jonathan Glazer, Under the Skin, a film that explores our abilities and desire for human contact. Download it now to see (or better to perceive) what we mean.
6.The rise of the masks (in street style and catwalks)
We have certainly already mentioned that it is highly unlikely that the creative directors of Maison Margiela, Yeezy and Marine Serre had Covid-19 in mind when they started working on their fall winter 2020 2021 collections. However, there was more than a subtle allusion to the fact that the protective masks on the catwalks of the latter indicated a renewed desire to have clothes that hide us from the outside world. (A revised trend in street style looks). Small clarification: although they do not offer any protection against viral diseases, the tendency to use clothes to hide their identity could prevent you from becoming accidental viral characters on social networks. Maybe.
7. Casting: the new age of age diversity
Amber Valletta at the Alexander McQueen fashion show
© Photography Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com
Behind the powerful silhouettes of Alexander McQueen’s fall winter 2020 2021 show, Sarah Burton gave a strong signal about age. His was a catwalk that saw the authentic encounter between women, from Kirsty Hume and Jill Kortleve, to Amber Valletta and Paloma Elsesser, as well as a historical review of genuine beauty and inclusiveness.
8. The power of the stars in the front rows (and the surprise appearance of the Hollywood stars)
Timothee Chalamet at the Haider Hackermann fashion show
© Bertrand Rindoff Petroff / Getty Images
From the appearance of Megan Thee Stallion in the first rows of the Coach parade in New York, to Hunter Schafer seen by Burberry during London Fashion Week and Sigourney Weaver from Bottega Veneta in Milan – the first rows of the fall winter 2020-2021 fashion shows were not certainly short of stars. The surprise appearance that worthily ended the fashion weeks in true Hollywood style? Timothée Chamalet, who appeared in dark glasses and nonchalantly at the Haider Ackermann fashion show during the Parisian week.
9. Models in pairs and chatting
Chanel fall winter 2020 2021 show
© Andrea Adriani / Gorunway.com
Chanel’s creative director, Virginie Viard, managed to ease the tension of the first model of the show – it is certainly the most coveted but also the most anxious place – thanks to the strength of girl power. In fact, for the autumn winter 2020 fashion show, a duo opened the show: Rianne van Rompaey and Vittoria Ceretti went out together while they were talking animatedly. Other models came out as a couple, but what made the web crazy was the trio made up of Gigi Hadid, Mona Tougaard and HyunJi Shin. Viard was not the only one to favor couples, Thom Browne and Molly Goddard have in fact shown that they believe in the power of the pack.