For a creative director whose style usually lands squarely in the future, it seems that Nicolas Ghesquière has focused this season on a much more contemporary issue: American politics. And yet, the first look down the runway with “Vote” across the chest was both a nod to Election Day and a push towards life after November 3. The Jane Jetson silhouettes and modular accessories in the collection gave us a glimpse of what we’ll be wearing this spring.
When each brand redefines what fashion means in a global pandemic and takes racial justice into account, not only does the runway require appropriate social distancing, but designers need to distance themselves from the past. According to Louis Vuitton’s show notes, the collection was “a sensitive area that erases genre and promises exponential creative possibilities.” Ghesquiére admitted that this was just the start of exploring non-binary designs in the famous Parisian house. He asked the following questions: “What does an intermediate garment look like? What kind of cut can dissolve the masculine and the feminine? In what wardrobe could it look great?”
In his journey to create a fluid collection, he drew heavily on skate culture, both literally – the word real was tagged on more than a few shirts – and figuratively. The baggy pants were cinched at the waist, much like real skaters pulling on their pants with laces, utility jackets reminiscent of Carhartt hoodies were thrown over bodycon dresses and shorts were cut to the knee with racy graphic prints , like something you spot teens hanging out on the outskirts of Tompkins Square Park.
The show’s attendees, who followed CDC guidelines with the required masks, included people like Alicia Vikander, Venus Williams, Laura Harrier, and more. Since the brand’s influencer list includes real skateboarders, Evan Mock had his own image displayed in Louis Vuitton flagship stores. and he walked the podium of Virgil Abloh in 2019 – so we wouldn’t be surprised if the brand continues this story. For now, let’s start saving for these skate shirts and hope we don’t get called posers.
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